June 20, 2011
I’m getting ahead of myself. Two more pre-Austin stops.
Lake Charles, LA. Distinguishing features: lack of coffee, bullet holes, empty storefronts, car accident right next to us.
 
And then there’s Beaumont, Texas, which might be the most striking and eerie of the many post-sprawlpocalyptic ghost cities we encountered, its beautiful art deco downtown utterly deserted during our mid-afternoon visit. Where were the 110,000 residents? The 15,000 students of Lamar University? They certainly weren’t anywhere in evidence in the blocks and blocks of empty skyscrapers making up the city center, or in the spooky, carnival-esque (and equally empty) entertainment district. The only signs of life seemed to be in the few offices in the high rises (legal and “executive services”), the interstate commercial strip, and the huge expanse of industrial (oil refinery?) structures surrounding the metropolitan area.

I’m getting ahead of myself. Two more pre-Austin stops.

Lake Charles, LA. Distinguishing features: lack of coffee, bullet holes, empty storefronts, car accident right next to us.

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And then there’s Beaumont, Texas, which might be the most striking and eerie of the many post-sprawlpocalyptic ghost cities we encountered, its beautiful art deco downtown utterly deserted during our mid-afternoon visit. Where were the 110,000 residents? The 15,000 students of Lamar University? They certainly weren’t anywhere in evidence in the blocks and blocks of empty skyscrapers making up the city center, or in the spooky, carnival-esque (and equally empty) entertainment district. The only signs of life seemed to be in the few offices in the high rises (legal and “executive services”), the interstate commercial strip, and the huge expanse of industrial (oil refinery?) structures surrounding the metropolitan area.

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June 20, 2011
After Rayne, we headed for Austin. This meant a slog through the Houston sprawl, a metro octopus whose tentacles reach too far to be cleanly circumvented by any west bound traffic from New Orleans, it seems. But, then, soon out of Houston the roads contracted to desert paths and things greatly improved.

After Rayne, we headed for Austin. This meant a slog through the Houston sprawl, a metro octopus whose tentacles reach too far to be cleanly circumvented by any west bound traffic from New Orleans, it seems. But, then, soon out of Houston the roads contracted to desert paths and things greatly improved.

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Filed under: Texas 
June 6, 2011
As Maya has noted, Rayne, Louisiana is the renowned City of Frogs. We actually knew nothing about it until we pulled off the highway in search of coffee and were immediately assailed by frog statues, frog murals, and frog memorabilia at every turn, memorial to the days when this city exported as much as 10,000 pounds of frog legs in a week, mostly to France. The market seems to have dropped off or moved elsewhere, but locals still reminisce about trapping frogs in the nearby swamps as children, selling them for a quarter each at a holding pond just off main street, and heading across to spend their spoils at the now shuttered theater.
 The Rayne Courthouse    of course, the local newspaper offices.     The Rayne Police Station.  And here’s the large scale sculpture greeting new arrivals to town. The plaque details that this image of “Monsieur Jacques”, left unpainted for “various reasons”, now signified that beneath our skin we were all the same (brushed steel, presumably). The bible is cited: “Not a flesh is the same, but there is one kind for human beings, another kind of flesh for birds, and another for fish.” (Corinthians 15:09)               The sole mural with not an amphibian in view.  As a slight aside, here’s the RV camp in which we camped for the night a little ways west of Baton Rouge and just before driving to Rayne. As I snapped this memento, a resident advised me “Get a good picture, it’ll all be under water in a few days”, tapping the new metallic false leg he’d only just recieved as replacement for the limb he’d lost during Katrina. He was referring to the impending opening of the Morganza Spillway to divert floodwaters away from New Orleans and into a supposedly uninhabited flood plain to the south and east. Contrast these grim prospects with the assurances of a few New Orleans residents we spoke with: that anyone in the Morganza had known exactly what they were getting into if they leased farming or mineral rights, and that comparatively few would be affected anyway. Now, as far as I can tell, flooding has not in fact reached so far inland as that RV Park, but that says nothing of the tens of thousands of homes that were placed at risk. These, apparently, are the trade-offs necessary to protect many many more people from another Katrina scenario. I’ve been unable to find much sound information on the outcomes for these homes, but I’m hoping that the silence indicates the best, and that the region has not been entirely returned to the frogs.

As Maya has noted, Rayne, Louisiana is the renowned City of Frogs. We actually knew nothing about it until we pulled off the highway in search of coffee and were immediately assailed by frog statues, frog murals, and frog memorabilia at every turn, memorial to the days when this city exported as much as 10,000 pounds of frog legs in a week, mostly to France. The market seems to have dropped off or moved elsewhere, but locals still reminisce about trapping frogs in the nearby swamps as children, selling them for a quarter each at a holding pond just off main street, and heading across to spend their spoils at the now shuttered theater.


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The Rayne Courthouse
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of course, the local newspaper offices.
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The Rayne Police Station.
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And here’s the large scale sculpture greeting new arrivals to town. The plaque details that this image of “Monsieur Jacques”, left unpainted for “various reasons”, now signified that beneath our skin we were all the same (brushed steel, presumably). The bible is cited: “Not a flesh is the same, but there is one kind for human beings, another kind of flesh for birds, and another for fish.” (Corinthians 15:09)
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The sole mural with not an amphibian in view.
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As a slight aside, here’s the RV camp in which we camped for the night a little ways west of Baton Rouge and just before driving to Rayne. As I snapped this memento, a resident advised me “Get a good picture, it’ll all be under water in a few days”, tapping the new metallic false leg he’d only just recieved as replacement for the limb he’d lost during Katrina. He was referring to the impending opening of the Morganza Spillway to divert floodwaters away from New Orleans and into a supposedly uninhabited flood plain to the south and east. Contrast these grim prospects with the assurances of a few New Orleans residents we spoke with: that anyone in the Morganza had known exactly what they were getting into if they leased farming or mineral rights, and that comparatively few would be affected anyway. Now, as far as I can tell, flooding has not in fact reached so far inland as that RV Park, but that says nothing of the tens of thousands of homes that were placed at risk. These, apparently, are the trade-offs necessary to protect many many more people from another Katrina scenario. I’ve been unable to find much sound information on the outcomes for these homes, but I’m hoping that the silence indicates the best, and that the region has not been entirely returned to the frogs.

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Filed under: Rayne LA 
May 20, 2011
New Orleans is beautiful and strange and I can never stop walking across it. These are a few of some hundred shots I kept from our two days here.

New Orleans is beautiful and strange and I can never stop walking across it. These are a few of some hundred shots I kept from our two days here.

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Filed under: New Orleans LA 
May 20, 2011
well, actually roads we drove on over a week ago. I’m a little behind.

well, actually roads we drove on over a week ago. I’m a little behind.

May 20, 2011
west texas highways

West Texas highways from Rock Hyrax on Vimeo.

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Filed under: timelapse texas 
May 19, 2011
Contrary to what I just said about towns losing their mainstreets to strip malls, Vicksburg, Mississippi seems to be doing just fine, with a high apparent ratio of historic riverfront downtown (and the only espresso we saw anywhere in Mississippi). And, built on the only serious hill we saw all afternoon, only the waterfront was at serious risk from the water (see Maya’s shot of the railroad station). Not nearly as much style as Clarksdale, but plenty of classic architecture around.
        
The route south had lots to offer as well.

Contrary to what I just said about towns losing their mainstreets to strip malls, Vicksburg, Mississippi seems to be doing just fine, with a high apparent ratio of historic riverfront downtown (and the only espresso we saw anywhere in Mississippi). And, built on the only serious hill we saw all afternoon, only the waterfront was at serious risk from the water (see Maya’s shot of the railroad station). Not nearly as much style as Clarksdale, but plenty of classic architecture around.

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The route south had lots to offer as well.
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Filed under: VIcksburg MS 
May 18, 2011
We started hearing about the flooding back in Clarksdale. Then, it was mostly in Memphis. By the time we hit Greenville, we’d started seeing flooded fields, and the water was high on the levee, swamping riverside casinos. Locals seemed resigned to wait and see what would happen, chatting about the last time, the 1927 flood which breached the levee and reached 80 miles away. In Jim’s Cafe, the oldest restaurant in town and home to Gus’ Hot Sauce, which is amazing, the walls were covered with 1927 flood memorabilia, among photos of James Woods and others on a film shoots here. Maya has already covered a lot of this,really well, but it seems worth mentioning again.
  
Even without the flood-watch, though, beyond Jim’s and the now-underwater casinos, Greenville’s mainstreet was alarmingly empty, gorgeous architecture from the first half of the century standing conspicuously vacant. Of course, the generic commercial strip on the way into town, fast food and quickmarts and strip malls, seemed to be doing fine. This is something we would see again and again: the life of historical, distinctive downtowns and mainstreets being leached entirely out into a sterilized low sprawl. Not always, not completely, but all too often.
      
Just before we left, a truck loaded with what appear to be theater seats, lost its cargo in the middle of main street. We’re not sure either. Then, flood watches continued all the way to Vicksburg.

We started hearing about the flooding back in Clarksdale. Then, it was mostly in Memphis. By the time we hit Greenville, we’d started seeing flooded fields, and the water was high on the levee, swamping riverside casinos. Locals seemed resigned to wait and see what would happen, chatting about the last time, the 1927 flood which breached the levee and reached 80 miles away. In Jim’s Cafe, the oldest restaurant in town and home to Gus’ Hot Sauce, which is amazing, the walls were covered with 1927 flood memorabilia, among photos of James Woods and others on a film shoots here. Maya has already covered a lot of this,really well, but it seems worth mentioning again.

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Even without the flood-watch, though, beyond Jim’s and the now-underwater casinos, Greenville’s mainstreet was alarmingly empty, gorgeous architecture from the first half of the century standing conspicuously vacant. Of course, the generic commercial strip on the way into town, fast food and quickmarts and strip malls, seemed to be doing fine. This is something we would see again and again: the life of historical, distinctive downtowns and mainstreets being leached entirely out into a sterilized low sprawl. Not always, not completely, but all too often.


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Just before we left, a truck loaded with what appear to be theater seats, lost its cargo in the middle of main street. We’re not sure either. Then, flood watches continued all the way to Vicksburg.


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May 17, 2011
Clarksdale, Mississippi. Significant blues center, significantly quiet on Monday nights, unfortunately. Even so, this was the point at which the cities became conspicuously deep south. Even the commercial strip proceeding the city along the state highway, full of gas stations and motels like anywhere, took on wholly its own appearance. From here on out, things would be notably different.
 Ground Zero, one of the many major blues clubs here.               D&T Meat Market’s Pick 5 Meat Box. So much meat you’ll have delerium tremens the next morning.

Clarksdale, Mississippi. Significant blues center, significantly quiet on Monday nights, unfortunately. Even so, this was the point at which the cities became conspicuously deep south. Even the commercial strip proceeding the city along the state highway, full of gas stations and motels like anywhere, took on wholly its own appearance. From here on out, things would be notably different.


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Ground Zero, one of the many major blues clubs here.
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D&T Meat Market’s Pick 5 Meat Box. So much meat you’ll have delerium tremens the next morning.

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Filed under: Clarksdale MS 
May 17, 2011

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Filed under: timelapse texas